Head to the vinegar section of the grocery store and you’ll find balsamic takes up most of the real estate. But unless you’re shopping at a specialty market, traditional balsamic vinegar won’t be among them. Instead, you’ll find an array of wine vinegar darkened with caramel, thickened with xanthan gum, or even flavored with various fruits. Traditional balsamic vinegar is an entirely different product. Its dark color, thick, syrupy texture, and unparalleled flavor are the result of artisanal processes unchanged for centuries. No shortcuts in sight!
How to make Traditional Balsamic Vinegar
Traditional balsamic vinegar starts with cooked grape must, mosto cotto in Italian, also known as Saba. Grape must is simply pressed grape juice. In this case, those grapes can only be from specific varieties grown in either Reggio Emilia or Modena provinces. Then, the cooked must ferments into vinegar before aging in a series of progressively smaller wooden barrels for a minimum of twelve years.
“Cooked grape must starts sweet and slowly acquires acidity during the acetic fermentation, all the while maintaining the softness derived from the initial cooking. Aging imparts depth, structure, and complexity”
– Mariangela Montanari of Acetaia La Ca Dal in Viola Buitoni’s “Italy by Ingredient”
Over time, the vinegar concentrates into a thicker and thicker liquid, taking on aromas from the wooden barrels. The result is a deep, complex condiment with sweet, savory, and sour notes.
How to recognize the real deal
The first thing you’ll notice is the bottle itself. Traditional balsamic vinegar comes in small, 100ml bottles. The shape tells you where the vinegar is from: a pot-bellied flask with a narrow neck is from Modena. On the other hand, those shaped like an upside-down tulip are from Reggio Emilia. Since traditional balsamic vinegar is such a highly regulated product, you’ll see markers of authenticity on the label. First, look for the red and yellow DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) seal from the EU. Then, notice the unique, traceable code from the consortium.
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena comes in two grades: either tradizionale, which is at least 12 years old and extravecchio, which is at least 25 years old. We source our Modenese vinegar from Acetaia La Ca dal Non. Vinegar maker Mariangela Montari has two extra special elixirs as well. “Vittorio”, named after her father, is at least 25 years old and undergoes its final round of aging in cherry wood, which imparts more fruity notes. “Demetria”, named after her grandmother, is also at least 25 years old and spends its final months aging in juniper wood, which gives the vinegar woodsy, more savory notes.
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia has three classifications: Red, aged at least 12 years, silver, aged between 18-20 years, and gold, aged at least 25 years. We source ours from Andre Bezzechi of Acetaia San Giacomo.
How to Use Traditional Balsamic Vinegar
This is a valuable condiment, treat it as such! The unique bottle design makes it easy to anoint your dishes drop by drop. Use it on risotto, perfectly cooked steak, oysters, or even on a scoop of gelato. For a one of a kind appetizer, drizzle over chunks of I Sapori delle Vacche Rosse cheese. The fatty, umami notes in the cheese are the perfect foil to the fruity, agrodolce viscosity of the vinegar. Whatever you do, you never want to heat this vinegar. Use it more like a garnish.